Pico do Arieiro
The views above the clouds
There are so many reasons why people choose to visit a particular destination. Some are drawn by its history, others by its nightlife, golden beaches, turquoise oceans or snow-capped mountains. We all have our own idea of the perfect escape, somewhere that speaks to us in its own special way.
For us, Madeira wasn’t a carefully planned holiday or a destination we had spent months dreaming about. In fact, we discovered this beautiful Portuguese island quite by accident. A family emergency meant we suddenly found ourselves boarding a plane, heading abroad to a place we knew very little about. We stayed for just three nights, but sometimes, all it takes is a few days in the right place to leave a lasting impression.
And that’s where our love affair with Madeira began.
We’ve returned numerous times since that first unexpected visit, and even now, we find ourselves drawn back to its shores. There is something about this island that keeps calling us home, a combination of its dramatic landscapes, rich history, welcoming people and slower pace of life. Perhaps it’s the sunshine, perhaps it’s the ocean, or perhaps it’s simply the feeling you get when you arrive somewhere that makes you forget, even for a little while, about the world beyond it.
Whatever it is, Madeira has a way of getting under your skin.
Our first visit took us to Funchal, Madeira’s vibrant capital, where history and everyday life seem to blend effortlessly together.
The Portuguese began settling in Madeira in the early 15th century, following its rediscovery by Portuguese explorers. The island lies in the Atlantic Ocean, closer to the coast of Morocco than to mainland Portugal, and its strategic position would eventually help shape its fortunes. Funchal developed into the island’s principal settlement, with its foundation traditionally dated to 1424.
Madeira’s fertile volcanic soil proved ideal for agriculture, and sugar cane soon became an important source of wealth. As trade flourished, Funchal grew into a significant Atlantic port, welcoming ships and merchants from far beyond its shores. Later, Madeira wine would become one of the island’s most celebrated exports, earning a reputation that travelled across the world.
Today, traces of that prosperous past can still be found throughout Funchal. Ancient fortifications stand watch over the coastline, religious buildings tell stories of another age, and historic streets wind between traditional houses, inviting you to slow down and explore.
For someone like me, who loves old buildings and the stories hidden within their walls, Funchal is a wonderful place to wander.
And one of the first places I would recommend visiting is the striking São Tiago Fortress.
São Tiago Fortress
Located in the Old Town, Funchal
Built above the seafront in Funchal’s Old Town, the São Tiago Fortress is impossible to miss. Its bold yellow walls stand out against the surrounding buildings, the blue ocean and the ever-changing Atlantic sky.
Construction began in 1614, when the threat of pirate attacks and foreign invasions made coastal defences essential. For centuries, Madeira’s position along important maritime routes brought prosperity, but it also left its ports vulnerable to those who wished to plunder their wealth.
Standing beside the fortress today, it is difficult not to imagine the world as it once was. Picture soldiers keeping watch over the water, scanning the horizon for unfamiliar sails. Imagine the tension as ships approached, the uncertainty of what they might bring, and the fear that must have gripped the city when danger appeared on the horizon.
How different those views must have looked to the people who once stood guard here.
Over the centuries, the fortress underwent alterations and served various purposes beyond its original military role. It was used by British forces and military police, and during the devastating floods of 1803, it also provided shelter for those affected by the disaster.
São Tiago Fortress
Keeping watch over the waters
Now, its imposing walls offer a very different experience. The views across the Atlantic are breathtaking, and the surrounding area provides a wonderful opportunity to pause and reflect on the generations who have stood in this very spot.
I always find myself wondering what these historic buildings have witnessed. The people who passed through their gates, the ships that came and went, the storms that battered the coastline and the lives that unfolded beneath their watchful walls.
History has a way of making even the most beautiful views feel that little bit more meaningful
If there is one thing that makes Funchal particularly enchanting, it is the character of its old streets.
Cobbled lanes wind between traditional buildings, their façades weathered by time and the salty Atlantic air. Little coffee shops, lively bars and charming gift shops sit alongside reminders of the city’s past. There is no need to rush here. Some of the loveliest discoveries happen when you turn down a street simply because it catches your eye.
My absolute favourite place to wander is Zona Velha, Funchal’s Old Town.
Here, the narrow streets are lined with traditional houses, each with its own character. But what makes this neighbourhood particularly special is the colour and creativity that greet you as you explore.
And then there are the doors.
Or, more accurately, the Portas Pintadas — the painted doors of Funchal’s remarkable art project, Arte de Portas Abertas.
Portas Pintadas
Art project, Arte de Portas Abertas
What began as an artistic initiative has transformed ordinary doorways into extraordinary works of art. Colourful designs, imaginative illustrations and beautifully painted scenes adorn the old wooden doors, turning the streets into something resembling an alfresco art gallery.
Every few steps, there is something new to discover. One door might make you smile, another might stop you in your tracks, and another might leave you wondering about the artist behind it.
I love the contrast between the old and the new. The centuries-old buildings provide the perfect backdrop for these vibrant creations, bringing fresh life to a historic neighbourhood without losing its character.
It is this combination of history, colour and everyday life that gives Funchal its wonderful charm. You can spend an afternoon simply strolling, stopping for a coffee, browsing a little shop and admiring the artwork, with no particular destination in mind.
Sometimes, those are the best afternoons of all.
Portas Pintadas
So much art work to show
A little adrenaline, or perhaps something more peaceful?
Madeira has plenty to offer those who enjoy a little excitement, and one of its most famous experiences is the traditional wicker toboggan ride from Monte.
These unusual sledges have been part of Madeira’s history since the 19th century. Originally used as a practical means of getting people down the steep hills towards Funchal, they have become one of the island’s most distinctive attractions.
Guided by skilled carreiros, who steer the sledges using their feet and traditional footwear, passengers glide down winding roads in a rather unconventional mode of transport.
It certainly looks exhilarating!
On our visit, I decided that watching the experience was quite enough for me. Instead, I followed the ride by car, which was an adventure in itself. There is something quite amusing about chasing a traditional wicker sledge down a Madeira hillside, especially when you are perfectly happy to leave the adrenaline rush to somebody else.
That day, I was in the mood for something a little calmer, something that would allow me to soak up the island’s beauty at a gentler pace.
And Madeira certainly didn’t disappoint.
Some places are beautiful. Others are so enchanting that you find yourself wondering whether you have somehow wandered into another world.
For me, Monte Palace Tropical Garden falls firmly into the latter category.
Perched high above Funchal, the gardens offer panoramic views across the city and its magnificent bay. But the views are only the beginning.
Monte Palace Tropical Garden
Photos just don’t do it justice
As you wander along the winding pathways, you discover an extraordinary collection of exotic plants, tranquil lakes, intricate stonework, artistic installations and sculptures inspired by cultures from around the world. Buddhist figures and oriental influences add to the sense that you have stepped far beyond the familiar.
There are quiet corners where the sound of water seems to soften the world around you, leafy pathways that invite you to keep exploring, and unexpected views that appear between the trees.
The gardens feel almost dreamlike.
At one point, I genuinely wouldn’t have been surprised to see a fairy flutter past me. It is the sort of place that encourages your imagination to run away with you, where every turn seems to reveal another little pocket of magic.
And the wildlife adds yet another layer of beauty. Majestic swans, peacocks, and colourful Asian koi carp.
You could spend hours here and still feel that you haven’t seen everything.
It is peaceful, exotic and wonderfully atmospheric, a place where you can leave the hustle and bustle behind and simply enjoy being there.
And, of course, there is the opportunity to sit down, take a breather and enjoy a cheeky glass of wine while admiring the surroundings. After all, even the most enthusiastic explorer deserves a little rest!
If you are visiting Madeira, this is somewhere I would wholeheartedly recommend adding to your itinerary.
Monte Palace Tropical Garden
The views are spectacular
One of the loveliest ways to reach Monte Palace Tropical Garden is by cable car.
Of course, this is assuming you don’t mind heights!
As the cable car rises above Funchal, the city gradually unfolds beneath you. Terracotta rooftops, whitewashed buildings and green hillsides stretch towards the coastline, while the Atlantic sparkles in the distance.
It is a wonderful opportunity to see Madeira from a different perspective, and the journey itself becomes part of the experience.
There is something quite special about looking down at a place you have been exploring on foot and seeing it transformed into a patchwork of rooftops, gardens and winding streets. From above, you begin to appreciate just how dramatically the city nestles between the mountains and the sea.
And as you climb higher, you can understand why Madeira is so often described as an island of extraordinary contrasts.
For all its history, colourful streets and magnificent gardens, some of my favourite memories of Madeira are much simpler.
One of the things I love most about the island is the abundance of little coffee shops and restaurants dotted along its coastline. There is always somewhere to sit, order a coffee or something delicious to eat, and watch the world go by.
We have spent many an afternoon sitting by the port, watching ships arrive and depart as the ocean stretches endlessly beyond them.
There is something wonderfully calming about it.
The gentle movement of the water, the distant sound of boats, the warmth of the sunshine on your skin and the occasional sea breeze all combine to create a feeling that is difficult to put into words.
You don’t need to be doing anything particularly exciting. You don’t need a packed itinerary or a list of attractions to tick off. Sometimes, all you need is a comfortable seat, a beautiful view and the luxury of having nowhere else you need to be.
I think that is one of the reasons Madeira keeps drawing us back.
Old Town, Funchal
The Old Town is beautiful
Life can be so busy. We spend our days rushing from one thing to another, making plans, meeting commitments and thinking about what comes next. Yet sitting beside the ocean reminds you that there is another way to spend your time.
You can simply stop.
Watch the ships come in. Listen to the water. Enjoy the sunshine. Talk about nothing in particular.
And for a little while, that is more than enough.
Although Funchal holds a special place in my heart, Madeira has so much more to offer beyond its capital.
We have visited many of the island’s towns and cities over the years, and I can honestly say that each has its own appeal. From coastal settlements and traditional villages to dramatic mountain scenery and lush green landscapes, there is always something new to discover.
The island’s volcanic origins have created an extraordinary landscape of steep valleys, rugged cliffs and towering peaks. One moment you can be wandering through a historic town, and the next you can find yourself surrounded by mountains, looking out across the Atlantic from a viewpoint that seems almost impossibly high.
Madeira is also famous for its levadas, the historic irrigation channels that carry water through the landscape. Many are accompanied by walking paths, allowing visitors to explore forests, valleys and beautiful stretches of countryside at a slower pace.
The scenery can change dramatically from one part of the island to another, which is why I would recommend hiring a car if you are comfortable driving and want to explore beyond Funchal. It gives you the freedom to stop at viewpoints, discover smaller places and enjoy the journey rather than simply travelling between destinations.
Just remember that Madeira’s roads can be steep, narrow and winding, so allow yourself plenty of time and don’t feel you need to squeeze everything into one day.
Some of the best discoveries are the ones you never planned.
So why do I love Madeira? The food is exceptional, the people are warm and welcoming, and the scenery is nothing short of spectacular. There is history around every corner, from the old fortresses watching over the coastline to the traditional streets that have been part of Funchal for generations.
But I think my love for Madeira goes beyond its individual attractions.
It is the feeling the island gives me.
Ponta Do Sol
Located between Ribeira-Brava and Calheta
It is the sunshine after a long grey spell at home. It is wandering down a cobbled street and discovering something unexpected. It is sitting beside the harbour with a coffee, watching ships cross the horizon. It is the beauty of the mountains, the sound of the ocean and the pleasure of having time to appreciate the world around me.
And perhaps it is also the memory of how we found it in the first place. We didn’t arrive with grand expectations or a carefully planned adventure. We arrived because life took an unexpected turn, and somewhere in those first three days, Madeira found a place in our hearts.
We have returned again and again, and each visit reminds me why.
There are destinations you visit, places you photograph and experiences you remember. And then there are those rare places that become part of your story, places that continue to call you back long after you have left.
For us, Madeira is one of those places.
It may not have been the destination we originally intended to discover, but sometimes life has a funny way of leading you exactly where you need to be.
And if you ever find yourself wondering whether Madeira is worth a visit, my answer would be a resounding yes.
Go for the history. Go for the scenery. Go for the food, the gardens, the sunshine or the ocean.
But leave yourself a little time to do absolutely nothing, too.
Find a seat beside the sea, order a drink, watch the ships come and go, and let the island work its magic.
You might just find yourself falling in love with it, too.
Casas de Santana
Located next to the Town Hall in Santana
